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5 Things to Try at DGS

Posted February 6, 2013 by Mary Kong-DeVito in The Loving Spoonful
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I wasn’t raised on Jewish food, but growing up in NYC, I ate a lot of it.  I love the stuff, and I miss the days of picking up a quick bagel, caw-fee and the New York Post to go every morning (I love a good schmear campaign). After seeing the way I piled lox on a bialy one morning, my former (Jewish) boss said, “Wow.  You eat like a Jew.”

It was a compliment of the highest order.

Since moving to DC, I’ve stopped eating bagels to spare myself the grief, and knishes are puzzling at best.  I once got charged $6 for a bagel with cream cheese at Bagel City in 1997, which offended me both as a New Yorker and as a Jew.

So it was with the same intense scrutiny from a lot of people when DGS opened in November.  Like waiting by the phone on a Friday night, people were desperate to see if they could finally get a decent deli sandwich around heyah.

And the answer is yes and no. While DGS does not claim to have deli classics, it does get very close to some, and updates others in a way that’s creative and tasty.

Sweet noodle kugel with cinnamon ice cream.

  • Happily authentic, the matzo ball soup ($7) is savory rich and oh-so chicken-y. This simple soup is dotted with a fluffy, respectably-sized matzo ball, soaked to the core with broth.  This is the perfect pick-me-up for colds, flus or a night at McFadden’s.
  • Though I long for spuds and mustard, the baked lamb sausage knish ($8) with flaky, glazed crust is an interesting Mediterranean take (there’re raisins! Mustard! Lentils!) full of flavor and texture.
  • A custardy eggplant Reuben ($10) is not overstuffed as you might expect, though filling nonetheless with tangy sauerkraut and white Thousand Island dressing.
  • The corned beef sandwich ($13) is again Dupont Circle-sized, but amazing with spicy mustard on crusty rye bread.
  • A dessert of sweet kugel ($7) reminds me of home and is really delicious with a scoop of cinnamon ice cream.
  • And what’s a visit to the deli without a frothy chocolate egg cream ($3)?  Whatsa matta wit you?! Get one, seriously.

Though the perfect potato knish remains elusive, DGS certainly fills a gaping void in the city.  Just don’t fuget to call yaw mutha. She worries so…

DGS Delicatessen
1317 Connecticut Avenue NW
Washington, DC 20036
202.293.4400

DGS Delicatessen  on Urbanspoon


About the Author

Mary Kong-DeVito

Mary grew up in New York where the food-centric city and her family's restaurants were literally her playground. Instead of eating dirt, she ate duck blood and rotten eggs. You never know what you'll find on the sidewalks.Mary is a veteran of the hospitality industry who's worked with numerous celebrities such as Barbra Streisand, Patrick Ewing, Vanessa Williams, Michael Stipe and Jane Krakowski. Her writing has appeared in DC Modern Luxury, Washington Post Express, Eater, Scoutmob, Washington Flyer and Washington City Paper.She eats "normal" stuff too, like cheeseburgers. Kangaroo cheeseburgers.